We can offer tips on how to eliminate your pests.  Bear Valley Hydroponics strongly urges consumers not to use systemics or products meant for ornamental use.  Do you use floramite, avid, judo, serene, eagle 20, or other toxic stuff?  Do you have a pest handlers card, know what a REI is, or understand what hepatoxicity and secondary metabolism means with regards to mammals and these chemicals?  If not, don't use them for anything but ornamentals.

Spider Mites

So you have mites.  The first signs are ususally some mild spotting and leaf damage towards the middle of the plant.  Using a 30x to 100x microscope, the eggs are very easy to identify.  They are small and usually milky white.  Any other egg color signifies a different strain of mite or a different pest.  Severe problems show webbing on the tops.

So how do you kill them?  If they do not respond to heavy pesticides, you are doomed.  Some mites are resistant from improper pesticide usage (shame on you floramite users, you fucked us all).

Neem Products.  Azatrol is our favorite.  Mix Azatrol at 15ml/gallon with Dutch Master Saturator and a quality seaweed extract.  Spray everything well, especially the underside of leaves.  Repeat 2-3 times at 3-4 day intervals.  Each time increase the dose a few mls per gallon.  One or two times during this period, mix up Azatrol and a yucca extract product and drench the root zone with 10ml/gallon.  Do not apply in the last few weeks before harvest.

Mighty Wash.  They say it is 99.9% water, but for some reason has an oil layer and is pink.  However, it is relatively safe and works good.

Predatory mites and others.  We have had luck using predatory mites (longepipes in the desert) followed by pirate bugs.  Only works well when population of spider mites are low.

If you are close to harvest, no spray.  However, mites hate humidity and low temp.  Take ice water and spray them, they will fall off and try to climb back up but it slows them down.  Drop your room to 68F or below, this stops their lifecycle.  If you have webs, take a shop vac and vacuum the flowers.  At 60 degreess you won't even know you have mites.

POWDERY MILDEW

In our opinion, this is the worst to get.  If you have a mother plant with mildew, even if no symptoms are present, every single clone will also have mildew.  Mildew spores travel in air, on your shoes, your smoke, and can last a kazillion years.

If you have PM, take your garden and burn the fucker.

Or if you want to spend some money on pest control, try this:  Take15ml/L Dutch Master Zone and 20ml/L Dutch Master Saturator and spray a couple of times in a week.  Then follow up with foliar spray of Mayan Microzyme.  This will keep it in check.  Equally effective is Greencure followed by Mayan Microzyme.

There is a new organic product called Oleotrol M that also works pretty good.  A great preventative is Actinovate.  This is a Streptomyces species that attackes fungus.  Foliar in early veg or flower and also mix it into your growing medium for organic preventative.

Just remember that 10-20% of commercially available clones have mildew, you just won't see it until flowering.  If you had mildew, expose everything in your grow room to +100 degreees for a full 24 hours to minimize any remaining spores.  Then, using a respirator, spray everything with 10% bleach solution.

HOW TO AVOID PESTS

So you have the funk.  I know how you got it, and no it didn't involve a bottle of gin, a blow up raft, and a hooker.  You got it from clones.  Be smart and don't purchase clones that are questionable in any way.  You have no way to tell if your clones are infested with mildew until its too late.  Early stages of root aphids are also next to impossible to spot. 

Do yourself a favor and go buy some seeds and start your own mother room.  Don't go from one garden to another.  Consuming herbs with mildew can also contaminate your grow.  Don't let pets in.  Always change your clothes after being in another garden or working outdoors (or better, garden naked).  Get adequate temperature control and air circulation.  And you should wipe down your CO2 cylinder after exchanging.

Root Aphids

Roots aphids are usually spotted when it is too late.  Cornell university doesn't recognize that they can attack plants like hemp.  They are the newest pest creation of the industry.  The young look like a dark aphid in the root zone, while the adults get wings that point near the abdomen.  Unlike fungus gnats, they fly towards the lights and do not avoid being squished like a normal fly.

You will not kill them easy.  Azatrol/Azamax is successful for some as a drench.  Some people have SNS203 work.  Others turn to the super toxic Imidicloprid, found in a lot of Bayer products. Imidicloprid is a persistant produt that should never be used during flowering or late vegetative growth.

Start over, clean the crap out of your room, and never buy clones again.